We are heading to Peru in June 2025. It is possible we may also head to Bolivia for some time as well. Mountaineering here has more potential than other places due to the access, cost, safety, lack of restrictions and comparatively high mountains. This would involve climbing mountains generally in the 5,000m to 6,800m range, mostly in the Cordillera Blanca (the highest tropical mountain range in the world). We will have a main base at Huaraz, which is often considered the 'Chamonix of the Andes' due to the popularity, quality and ease of climbing. The plan is to climb mountains with a range of difficulties, altitude and access. We will be starting with easy peaks, potentially with a guide, until the Andes feel more familiar. Some peaks we may consider include Ishinca (5,530m), Urus Este (5,420m), Shaqsha, Pisco Oeste, Chopicalqui (6,354m), Yanapaccha, Vallunaraju, Alpamayo (harder) and Huascaran (6,768m, highest in Peru). If we went to Bolivia we would look at potential other peaks such as Pequeño Alpamayo.
We will also enjoy Peruvian culture (primarily the food and colourful clothing) between summits and make the most of the exchange rate. Hiking will generally include approaches to climbs (better hiking anyway), and we will probably not consider hiking routes. We will consider tourism during times when we don't intent to climb.
We will have a total of 4 or 6 people, depending on experience. This trip was approved $3000 in funding, and this will be divided up amongst the participants. Participants need to be stoked for mountaineering, and have solid experience climbing trad, multiday bushwalking, use of crampons and ice axes and have confident feet. Previous mountaineering experience is looked upon highly, as is first aid, avalanche and crevasse training. Participants must have a high level of fitness, as there are generally multiple people moving together on a rope. This means everyone will be slowed down by a slower climber.
Nat or Byron will run preparatory climbing and mountaineering trips (potentially to Blue Lake) in the months prior to the trip, allowing interested parties to gain experience. These will potentially allow solid climbers to transition to mountaineering, but is not a substitute for trad climbing experience. Participants will generally need to have been on a trip with either Nat and/or Byron, as that way the ability of the participant can be assessed.
Mountaineering is a dangerous sport, to participate you must understand the risks. Going into mountains can result in death for even experienced climbers due to objective danger.
Personal gear will include:
- Mountaineering boots (owned ideally)
- Crampons
- Ice axe or ice tools (owned or hired, may need hiring in Peru)
- Alpine harness (more compact, can be worn with backpack)
- Large backpack (60+ L)
- Climbing pack (30-40 L)
- Climbing gear (slings, carabiners, PAS etc)
- Shell clothing
- Insulative clothing (hiking down jackets will NOT suffice)
- Headtorch
- Helmet
- Category 4 sunglasses (not just any, you don't want snow blindness)
- Warm alpine gloves
- Warm sleeping bag
- Warm sleeping mat (check R value, should be above 5 or paired with a second mat)
- Alpine stove (liquid fuel or specially designed gas) and other cookware
- Passport
- Method of paying in Peru
A rough cost (including food, which will be cheaper than in Aus anyway):
- Airfare to Lima $3,000
- Bus from Lima to Huaraz $100
- Accommodation over the whole trip ~$200 (assumption being 10 nights in hostels/hotels)
- Food $400
- Insurance $350
- Gear hire ? (As necessary per person)
- Guide $500
- Subtract Expedition Fund (-$750)
- TOTAL: $3,750 - $4,500
Registrations do not confirm your place on this trip, participants will be chosen from those that have registered based on experience. But please, if you are keen, sign up to be considered!